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Rock'em Sock'em Robots: Part 3

2024-03-15 | By Zach Hipps

License: General Public License

I'm making a version of the classic toy Rock ‘Em, Sock ‘Em Robots, but my version is ‎life-sized! I'm using an air compressor to drive pneumatic cylinders for the punching ‎arms. I'm also including some electronics that will detect the punches and keep track of ‎who's winning. This is the third part of this series. I need to build a second robot, so I've ‎‎3D printed all of the pieces I used on the first robot, and I've cut all of the aluminum ‎extrusion to build that second robot. Once I build the blue robot, I need to design a ‎skeletal structure so that I can build out the torso of these robots, and then I think I'm ‎going to try to wrap the skeletal structure in a thin layer of ABS plastic.‎

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When I built the red robot, I needed to add a little bit more rigidity to the setup. So, I ‎designed and prototyped a gusset piece out of wood, and it worked, but I think I want to ‎make this out of metal. Since I don't have a way to do that here in my shop, I'm going to ‎be using an online metal-cutting service. I added a little tab and I had them bend it to a ‎‎90-degree angle and that will make this part a lot stronger.‎

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Now that I've got the aluminum gusset installed, I can start building the frame for the ‎blue robot. But I didn’t get very far before I realized that I put the arms on backward! I ‎was using the red robot as a reference to make sure I had all the parts in the right spot, ‎and I put the arms facing the same direction as the red robot! These two robots are ‎meant to have a boxing match, not start a conga line! I think I can take two screws off ‎and lift it off and flip it around. Easy fix; now it's facing the right way.

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I struggled to know exactly how far apart these robots needed to be spaced. I know that ‎the chest pieces are probably going to stick out a little bit, and I want the punches to ‎land in the middle of the chest, but I didn't have exact measurements, so I had to ‎guesstimate. I may end up having to shift them a little bit either further apart or closer ‎together, depending on how far they reach. I'll cross that bridge when I get there ‎because there's no way of knowing at this point. ‎

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One thing that I noticed while assembling the blue robot's frame is that the shoulders ‎and neck joints are a little bit flimsy, and the same problem existed on the red one. To ‎fix that, I designed a bracket and installed it on the back of both robots. That made it a ‎lot more rigid than it was before, and I think that it's going to hold up to those punches ‎much better than what I had before.‎

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The last thing that I need to do to get the blue robot in the same state as the red one is ‎to route all of the pneumatic tubes. There are three pneumatic cylinders, and each ‎cylinder gets two tubes. All of those tubes are routed to a central manifold. The central ‎manifold has all of the solenoid valves, which control all of the movements of both ‎robots.

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I'm so relieved to have both robots in the same state. It's taken a lot to get here. Next on ‎the list is to create the chest pieces. I went back and forth on how I was going to ‎approach this. It's sort of a complex shape if you look at the original toy. There are a lot ‎of contours, and it's something that I would need to sculpt out of foam or something, ‎which is way outside of my comfort zone. I'm much more comfortable designing things ‎that have square and predictable geometries. My first thought was to get a big sheet of ‎rigid foam insulation, cut it into layers, stack those on top of each other, and sculpt out ‎this shape. What I ended up doing was designing some skeleton pieces that would go ‎inside and attach to the frame. Then I'm going to get a sheet of ABS plastic and wrap ‎that on the outside like a skin. If you look at the 3D model, you'll see that I've designed ‎these flat plates that slide up and down onto that center frame. I used the honeycomb ‎pattern cut out to save weight. If you look closer at these plates, you can see that I have ‎some bent metal tabs. This is how I'm going to attach the flexible ABS sheet to the ‎skeleton pieces.‎

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The skeleton pieces arrived, and I test-fit them onto the frame of the robot. They have a ‎pretty tight tolerance. I have to twist them a little to make them easier to slide on. These ‎skeleton pieces don't bolt to the frame itself, but they do bolt to each other, and the ‎tolerance is tight enough that I think that should be rigid enough. If it turns out that they ‎need to be bolted to the frame, I'll figure out some way to do that. I'm going to go ahead ‎and cut some short aluminum extrusion to bolt these skeleton pieces together. I've got ‎a big sheet of ABS plastic, and the idea is to attach full sheets to the robot, wrap the ‎skin around it, and cut holes where the neck needs to go. When I tried that, however, ‎the results were disastrous. It doesn’t look right, and things aren’t wrapping around the ‎right way. When I look at these, it's pretty obvious why… These skeleton plates are ‎made up of two different sizes. The inner one is a much larger diameter than the outer ‎one. In order to wrap a piece of skin around, it needs to be a sort of conical shape. Of ‎course, the first thing I do is measure the circumference of the smaller part and then ‎the circumference of the larger part, and I enter that into the cone formula to create a ‎flat pattern template. When I wrap this together, it sort of makes a truncated cone, but ‎the problem is that the skeleton plates are not perfect circles, so this pattern did not ‎work at all.‎

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I decided to go with an iterative process. I get some large pieces of paper and begin ‎taping them to this shape and cut away the excess, and I slowly refine the pattern over ‎and over from shape to shape until I get something that is pretty close. Then, I used the ‎pattern and cut a piece out of the ABS sheet, and I was surprised at how well it fits. ‎There are some minor adjustments that I need to make, so I wrote down some notes ‎before cutting out the final piece. Fortunately, the left and the right-hand sides are just ‎mirror images of each other, so I can flip the template upside down and cut the other ‎pieces out of the plastic. I used a bandsaw to cut these pieces out, and now I have all ‎four pieces that are ready to attach to the skeleton pieces.‎

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The next piece that I need to make is the front breastplate piece, and it's got these ‎ridges that go back and forth, kind of like a mountain top. One of the reasons I chose to ‎use ABS plastic is because it's a thermoplastic. So theoretically, I should be able to ‎heat this plastic and make it conform to these contours, and to do that, I thought I would ‎just use a typical heat gun. It has plenty of power to heat a piece of plastic sheet, so I ‎tried it on a little test piece, and it works pretty well. I went ahead and started on the full-‎size piece, but it didn't work as well as I had hoped. It started to warp a little bit. I ‎remembered that I had watched a video about bending plastic from David Picciuto on ‎his YouTube channel “Make Something.” I'm going to use one of the techniques that I ‎learned from that video. I bought a cheap single-burner hot plate from Walmart and ‎removed the heating element and straightened it out. A heating element like this solves ‎the problem I had earlier with the heat gun, which just blasts too much heat and it's not ‎very focused. The heating element, on the other hand, is going to apply heat just ‎where I need it and not anywhere else, and that's going to be the key to success.‎

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I stepped away from this project for about 6 weeks while I worked on other projects. I ‎ran into so many problems trying to bend this plastic using the heating element from ‎the hot plate, and it just turned out horrible. It doesn't look good. It's not what I was ‎going after. The plastic is kind of wavy. There's a lot of extra bumps in here that I don't ‎like the look of, so I think I need to recognize when it's time to throw in the towel and ‎move in a different direction. I think this process is really interesting and I think it would ‎work with a single bend but trying to get a series of bends to line up exactly where they ‎needed to, it just didn't work out. At this point, I think I'm going to backtrack and call this ‎a failure and remove all of the ABS plastic. Instead, I'll design some shell pieces that I ‎can print using my 3D printer. I printed all of the parts on the 3D printer, and they look ‎awesome. I can already tell that this is going to turn out way better than the sheets of ‎ABS plastic. The only downside is that this is a lot of surface area to cover, so I have to ‎break the prints into smaller pieces to fit onto the printer’s bed. It took so much trial and ‎error to get to this point, and honestly, it was mostly “error,” but I think it was worth the ‎effort. Stay tuned for part 4 where I finish them and do some fighting!‎

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