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micro:bot Kit Experiment Guide

2024-05-21 | By SparkFun Electronics

License: See Original Project micro:bit

Courtesy of SparkFun

Guide by D___RUN___, THEDARKSAINT, BBOYHO, ELL C

Introducing the micro:bot Kit

The micro:bit is a great platform for learning how to build and program robots! Combining the ‎micro:bit with the SparkFun moto:bit - micro:bit Carrier Board (Qwiic) creates a flexible, low-cost ‎robotics platform for anyone from students getting started with the micro:bit to the engineer looking ‎to quickly prototype or build a proof of concept.‎

The micro:bot kit v2.0 is the extension of that idea: build simple robots quickly that leverage the ‎capabilities of the micro:bit while implementing peripheral sensors and motor functions with simple ‎programming in the Microsoft MakeCode environment as a gateway into robotics.‎

 

What's Included in the Kit?‎

SparkFun micro:bot kit for micro:bit - v2.0‎

The kit includes the following parts:

Note: The kit does not include the following and they will need to be purchased these separately: ‎

How to Use This Guide?‎

This guide is designed to get you started with the moto:bit board and the SparkFun micro:bot kit in ‎a straightforward and simple way. We demonstrate each component's functionality and the ‎corresponding code to make it work.‎

While you explore this guide, we urge you to take your time and tinker with the sensors, code, and ‎the ideas shared to build something tailored to your application and creativity. Our goal is to get you ‎enough information and know-how to make you dangerous and then release you into the wild to do ‎whatever you do with your robot.‎

Be sure to share your projects with us over Twitter or Facebook! We are excited to see you Start ‎Something!‎

Suggested Reading

Before continuing with this guide, we recommend you be somewhat familiar with the concepts in ‎the following tutorials:‎

  • Accelerometer Basics: A quick introduction to accelerometers, how they work, and why ‎they're used.‎
  • Hobby Servo Tutorial: Servos are motors that allow you to accurately control the rotation of the ‎output shaft, opening up all kinds of possibilities for robotics and other projects.‎
  • Getting Started with the micro:bit: The BBC micro:bit is a compact, powerful programming ‎tool that requires no software installation. Read on to learn how to use it YOUR way!‎

Open Source

All of our experiments and guides are licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike ‎‎4.0 Unported License. Feel free to remix and reuse our work. But please, share the love and give ‎us attribution for our hard work!‎

To view a copy of this license visit this link, or write: Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Suite ‎‎300, San Francisco, CA 94105, USA.‎

About the moto:bit Board

The moto:bit is a carrier board for the micro:bit. Similar to an Arudino shield, it is designed to add ‎functionality to the micro:bit without the hassle of a number of other boards, soldering, and all of ‎those jumper wires.‎

SparkFun moto:bit - micro:bit Carrier Board (Qwiic)‎

In this case, the moto:bit takes a micro:bit and turns it into a full-blown robotics platform. Wondering ‎what you can do with it? Well, here are a few things...‎

  • Control motors through an onboard H-Bridge
  • Read digital sensors such as line and bump sensors
  • Read analog sensors like light sensors, temperature sensors, etc.
  • Control servo motors
  • I2C port for extending functionality

That is a lot of options in terms of bells and whistles! Let's take a closer look at the board and go ‎over each section.‎

Note: If you have the previous version of this board (DEV-14213), note that the functionality is, for ‎all intents and purposes, the same. Version 2.0 just has an upgraded micro:bit connector and a ‎Qwiic connector to bring this board into our Qwiic eco-system. You should be able to use the ‎original moto:bit board in the same manner as the revised board is used in the rest of this ‎experiment guide!

qwiic_1

Qwiic moto:bit [ DEV-15713 ]‎

motobit_2

moto:bit [ DEV-14213 ]‎

Edge Connector

The moto:bit connects to the micro:bit via an edge pin connector. This makes it handy to swap out ‎micro:bits for programming, and it creates reliable connections to all of the different pins on the ‎micro:bit.‎

edge_3

H-Bridge and Motor Pins

An H-Bridge is a chip that is the heart of a robot when it comes to driving motors and more ‎specifically driving motors in both directions. Depending on the electrical state of specific pins on ‎the H-Bridge, a motor drives forwards, backwards, and at different speeds. The good thing about ‎this board is that if you are using Microsoft MakeCode, you actually don't really need to know a ‎whole lot about the H-Bridge itself.‎

hbridge_4

To connect the hobby motors that are included in the kit, you can insert them into the 2-pin female ‎connectors just above the motor pins. The connectors are highlighted in the image below. Keep in ‎mind that direction the hobby motors will move depends on the code to control the H-bridge motor ‎driver, how the motors are attached to a chassis, and the way the motors are wired to the input pins.‎

connect_5

Motor Control Switch

The moto:bit has a switch that controls the power supply to the motors. That way you can have the ‎robot powered while working on it or programming it and know that the robot is not going to start ‎moving and drive off of the table. Believe us... that happens all the time!‎

motor_6

Input and Output Pins

The male pins on the moto:bit is for hooking up various inputs and outputs on your robot without ‎using a breadboard to build elaborate circuits.‎

pins_7

We have a number of sensors and actuators that are built in this pin formation and will work with this ‎board.‎

Servo Ports

No robot is complete without an arm, a swiveling "head," or some other type of movement other ‎than wheels. Notice that a couple of the pin groups are designated as "Servo". You can connect ‎servo motors directly to these pins and use them right out of the box with Microsoft MakeCode.‎

servo_8

I2C Port

We broke out the I2C port of the micro:bit to an external port so that you can add any I2C capable ‎sensor or actuator you can think of. It is standard pin arrangement to many of our I2C sensor ‎breakout boards.‎

port_9

Qwiic Connector

With the updated moto:bit board, we've added a Qwiic connector so that our Qwiic line of ‎products can be incorporated more easily.‎

qwiic_10

Power

A standard barrel jack connector is used for easily powering your robot. We find that a 4xAA battery ‎pack works great, but it will accept between 3V-11V at the barrel jack. That's a whole lot of robo-‎power!‎

power_11

Maximum Input Voltage Range for Vcc: If you have the previous version of this board, the ‎silkscreen indicates that the maximum input voltage range is between 3V to 17V. However, the ‎actual voltage range that the board can support through the barrel jack is between 3V to ‎‎11V. Please do not apply more than 11V to the power jack on the moto:bit. The updated version of ‎this board lists the maximum input voltage correctly.

voltage_12

Assembling Your Robot

This section will cover how to assemble your robot chassis. Assembly time: 30-60 minutes‎

The robot chassis requires the following pieces to build. You'll find most of them in your SparkFun ‎micro:bot kit.‎

Note: Several of the parts need to be snapped out of the main chassis panels.‎

pieces_13

Assembling Your Robot

No Tools Necessary

The robot chassis does not require any additional tools.‎

WARNING: Do not attempt to remove chassis parts by squeezing them with pliers. If you try to ‎muscle, it too much you risk breaking them and compromising the structure of your robot. Handle ‎with care. ;)‎

notools_15

A Note About Orientation

When we talk about the "front," "left," "right," and "back" of the Shadow Chassis, we are referring to ‎specific sides of the robot when viewed from above.‎

chassis_16

Notice that we consider the SparkFun moto:bit to be on the "back" of the bot and the Bumper ‎Whiskers and Line Follower Boards to be in the "front."‎

Assembly

Installing Motors

Let's begin by installing the motors that will control the wheels. Locate the following:

assembly_17

Attach Rear Motor Mounts

Hold the wires near the middle of the Motor (N), and carefully slide a Rear Motor Mount (D) in from ‎the side and over the two motor wires. Be careful not to snag the wires, the cable tie, or the clear ‎plastic strap.‎

mounts_18

Holding the motor wires, gently twist the Rear Motor Mount counterclockwise so that it snaps in ‎place on the motor and the wires are centered in the gap of the motor mount. Again, be sure not to ‎snag the wires under the motor mount.‎

snap_19

Repeat the process for the second motor, ensuring that it is a mirror image of the first.‎

repeat_20

Attach the Front Motor Mounts

Slide a Front Motor Mount (C) onto the protruding eyelet on the front of a Motor (N). Ensure the ‎rounded sides of the motor mounts are facing the same way.‎

slide_21

Repeat the process for the second motor.‎

second_22

Attach the Motor Assemblies to the Chassis

Snap one of the motor assemblies into the left two horizontal slots of the Bottom Chassis Plate (A). ‎Make sure that the rounded edges of the motor mounts and the wires are facing toward the center ‎of the chassis. Repeat for the opposite motor.‎

snap_23

Attach the Wheels

Slide one Wheel (L) onto the plastic shaft of a Motor (N). Look at the motor shaft. Notice it has two ‎flat edges. Make sure to line up the flat edges of the motor shaft with the flat edges of the wheel.‎ wheel_24

 

wheel_24

Repeat with the other wheel.‎

repeat_25

Installing the Line Sensors

This section will cover the Line Following Sensors array assembly. You'll first build the Line ‎Following array and then attach it to the chassis. Locate the following:‎

installing_26

Construct the Line Follower Assembly

Attach the three Line Follower Boards (O) to the Line Follower Mount (I) such that the rectangular ‎pegs in the Line Follower Mount poke through the mounting holes in the Line Follower Boards. ‎Make sure the sensors are facing away/down from the clip of the mount.‎

construct_27

Place the Line Follower Mount Plate (J) on top-of-the-Line Follower Mount (I) so that the center ‎clip of the mount is poking through the center slot of the plate.‎

place_28

Attach the Cables

You will need to connect a 3-Wire Jumper Cable (K) to each of the Line Follower Boards (O). Note ‎the color of the wire attached to each pin.‎

Line Follower Connections:‎

connections_29

Attach all 3 cables to the 3 Line Follower Boards. Notice that the yellow wire should be on the right ‎‎(out) and the red wire should be on the left (ground).‎

cables_30

Attach the Line Follower Assembly to the Chassis

Locate the wide, rectangular slot near the front of the chassis and snap the line follower assembly ‎in from the bottom side of the chassis. Route the cables through the large hole in the bottom plate.‎

locate_31

The bottom of your chassis should look like the following image allowing the line sensors to be ‎facing down.‎

bottom_32

Final Assembly

With the motors and a few sensors attached, we can assemble the main body of the robot. Locate ‎the following:‎

final_33

You will also need the Top Chassis Plate and Bottom Chassis Plate assemblies, which have any ‎additional parts and sensors you attached in previous steps.‎

Attach the Nub Caster

Snap the Nub Caster (M) into the slot on the back of the Bottom Chassis Plate assembly. Make sure ‎the Nub Caster is on the side opposite the motors (the bottom side).‎

nub_34

Add the Side Struts

Snap the four Side Struts (E) into the diagonal slots on the four corners of the Bottom Chassis ‎Plate assembly.‎

add_35

Pull the cables through the cutouts on the chassis.‎

cables_36

Route the Cables

Position the Top Chassis Plate over the Bottom Chassis Plate -- but do not snap the two plates ‎together yet. Make sure that the front sides of each plate line up.‎

Route the wires and cables through the left and right oval slots in the Top Chassis Plate assembly ‎as shown. For the center line follower sensor, route this cable through the left oval slot.‎

NOTE: It might be a good idea to use some pieces of masking tape to mark which cables go to ‎which component. It's not necessary, but it might help keep things organized.‎

Cable Routing:‎

table_37

routing_38

Attach Top Chassis Plate Assembly

Line up the Top Chassis Plate on top of all the struts, and carefully snap the Top Chassis Plate ‎assembly onto the side struts and motor mounts. Press gently above each side strut individually ‎until they each snap into place. If you have the Bumpers installed, make sure the boards are ‎between the top and bottom plates.‎

top_39

If you need to remove the plate to change anything, gently pull upward on each side strut ‎individually. Do not attempt to use pliers or hand tools, or you may end up snapping the plastic clip.‎

Attaching the moto:bit

In this section, you will add brains of the robot: the micro:bit and SparkFun moto:bit. Locate the ‎following:‎

brains_40

You will also need the full chassis assembly, which contains any additional parts you attached in ‎previous steps.‎

Attach the moto:bit Mounts

Snap the two moto:bit mounts (G) into the vertical slots in the back of the top chassis plate near the ‎large rectangular opening.‎

snap_41

Both of these mounts will enable your moto:bit board to be mounted to the chassis.‎

mounted_42

Add the moto:bit

Before you snap in the moto:bit board, insert your micro:bit into the moto:bit as shown here.‎

insert_43

The moto:bit snaps into the lowest of the notches on the moto:bit Mounts (G). Make sure the ‎power jack is facing the left side of the robot. Push gently and evenly until it snaps into place.‎

notches_44

Note: The other slots in the moto:bit mounts can be used to hold the Arduino Uno or the SparkFun ‎RedBoard.‎

Once snapped, your setup should look like the image below without the wires connected to the ‎moto:bit board.

setup_45

Connecting the Cables

It is time to connect the jumper wires; it is really important that these connections are right.‎

jumper_46

Follow along with the tables and annotated image with the cables connected for reference. Trace ‎each cable poking through the top chassis plate to make sure you know what it is connected to.‎

follow_47

Please Note: When you have the micro:bot upright and the front of the chassis facing away from ‎you, "left" sensors/motors will be on the left side and "right" sensors/motors will be on the right side. ‎Also, the motor wires are intentionally switched for the right motor -- see notes below.‎

Line Followers

Below is a table for each connection between moto:bit and analog line follower. Start with the left ‎line follower.‎

line_48

Left Line Follower:‎

Left Line Follower

Center Line Follower:

Center Line Follower

Right Line Follower:

Right Line Follower

Once connected, the wires should look similar to the image below.‎

wires_52

Motors

Choose a pair of motor wires to begin wiring up to the moto:bit. The way the motors are wired up to ‎the moto:bit will affect how the micro:bot drives. Make sure to follow the color of the wire with the ‎silkscreen on the board.‎

choose_53

Below is a table for each connection between moto:bit and motor.

Left Motor:‎

Left Motor

Right Motor:

Right Motor

Once all wires are connected it should look like the following image.‎

wireconnect_56

Warning! So, what happens when you wire the motors the other way? Well, your motor may move ‎a different direction when using the example code provided in this tutorial. There are two options if ‎you notice the micro:bot moving in the wrong direction. You can flip the wiring of your motors or ‎use the adjust the code blocks to change what is forward vs reverse. It's relative so either ‎connection can be "correct" if the code you are using is consistent. We recommend following the ‎silkscreen to reduce the amount of time troubleshooting.

correct_57

"Correct" Motor Wiring‎

incorrect_58

‎"Incorrect" Motor Wiring‎

Batteries

The last step is to provide a power source for the micro:bot. You will need to provide your own AA ‎batteries (Q). Locate the following:‎

batteries_59

Insert Batteries

Insert the AA batteries into the Battery Holder (P). Makes sure the batteries are facing the correct ‎direction, as per the markings inside of the Battery Holder.‎

insert_60

Attach Battery Pack

Insert the Battery Holder (P) with batteries into the back cavity of the chassis. Position the Battery ‎Holder so that the barrel jack cable comes out on the left side of the robot.‎

pack_61

Insert the Battery Pack Clip (H) on top of the battery pack.‎

insert_62

Twist and position the clip so that it rests on top of the battery pack.‎

twist_63

Push the clip down into the vertical slots in the Bottom Chassis Plate so it snaps in place.‎

push_64

Route the barrel jack cable out of the left side of the chassis and up to the moto:bit.‎

route_65

Plug the barrel jack cable into the barrel connector on the side of the moto:bit carrier board.‎

plug_66

Changing the Batteries

If you find that you need to replace the batteries in the micro:bot, the process is simple. Unplug the ‎battery pack from the moto:bit.‎

changing_67

Turn the micro:bot over and push on the Battery Holder through the hole in the Bottom Chassis ‎Plate. This will cause the Battery Pack Clip to unsnap from the Bottom Chassis Plate.‎

turn_68

Slide the Battery Pack and Clip out from the back of the micro:bot.‎

slide_69

attach_70

Change the batteries, and follow the steps in Attach Battery Pack section above to put the Battery ‎Pack back in the micro:bot.‎

Installing the moto:bit Extension in MakeCode

To make the most out of the moto:bit with the least amount of coding, use the Microsoft ‎MakeCode extension we wrote for the moto:bit board.‎

Extension

If you have used Arduino before, you probably know about a thing called a library, which is a ‎collection of code that extends the functionality of the core programming language. MakeCode ‎extension work the same way.‎

There are some amazing differences between Arduino libraries and MakeCode extensions. One of ‎them is that MakeCode extensions include JavaScript functions, which you can use when ‎programming in text, as well as all of the blocks you need to program using the block method. This ‎makes learning and using new extensions straightforward and shortens the time to awesome when ‎setting out to build the project of your dreams.‎

Heads up! Previously, these libraries were referred to as MakeCode packages. They are now ‎referred to as MakeCode extensions.‎

Installing a MakeCode Extensions

To install or add a new extension to your MakeCode toolbox (the list of different block groups), ‎click on "Advanced" and then on "Add Extensions." This should be the last item on the list.‎

extentions_71

From here you can search for "SparkFun" or "SparkFun moto-bit," and it should show up as a ‎public extension in the list. Go ahead and click on it.‎

click_72

This will add all of the blocks to your toolbox. In general, this is a bit tricky as, depending on how ‎the extension was written, it may either have its own toolbox or just add blocks to the existing ones. ‎Take a look at your toolbox; for the moto:bit you should see...‎

blocks_73

Great! You have now installed the moto:bit extension and are ready to use the board as well as the ‎components that come in the micro:bot kit. As a side note, for every new MakeCode project that ‎you make, you will have to load extensions over again. Not a big deal, but noteworthy! Now, let's put ‎your extension to good use and get your robot moving!!!‎

Experiment 1: Driving and Turning

Introduction

The "Hello World" for the robotics world is getting your robot moving! Driving forwards, backwards, ‎and steering is goal #1 when you are dealing with wheeled / moving robots. This experiment will ‎cover just that: getting your robot moving using our moto:bit software package for Microsoft ‎MakeCode. Once you get through this first experiment you will be golden!‎

Parts Needed

You will need the following parts:‎

  • 1x micro:bit Board (Not Included with Kit)
  • ‎1x Micro-b USB Cable (Not Included with Kit)
  • ‎1x moto:bit Carrier Board
  • ‎2x Wheels
  • ‎1x Assembled Shadow Chassis
  • ‎2x Hobby Gear Motors
  • ‎1x 4xAA Battery Holder
  • ‎4x AA Batteries (Not Included with Kit)‎

Didn't get the kit? Have no fear! Here are the parts you will need to complete this experiment. You ‎may not need everything though depending on what you have. Add it to your cart, read through ‎the guide, and adjust the cart, as necessary.

Suggested Reading

Before continuing on with this experiment, we recommend you be familiar with the concepts in the ‎following tutorial:‎

Introduction to the Motors and Controlling Them

Motors take electrical energy and turn it into mechanical energy through putting a current through a ‎coil of wire that creates a magnetic field. This then interacts with magnets in the motor, causing a ‎push / pull effect. If you do that in a proper spacing and timing, then you can spin a shaft.‎

motors_74

The hobby motors used with the micro:bot operate in a similar was as mentioned above, but they ‎have a bit of help; a gear box. The ratio of the gearbox is 120:1, which means that for every 120 ‎rotations of the motor shaft you get one rotation at the end of the gear box. This is a good thing ‎because it gives our robot enough strength (torque) to turn wheels. In this case, our gearbox also ‎changes the axis of the shaft so that we can easily use them to drive our robot.‎

Hardware Hookup

You should have already hooked up the motors during the assembly process of putting the robot ‎together. But we have a couple of things that we would like you to double check!‎

hardware_75

First of all, make sure that your red and black wires are plugged into your moto:bit and that they are ‎in the correct ports. If you look closely the right and left ports are opposite from one another.‎

first_76

Why is that? Well, in robotics the right and left motors are mirrors of one another, which means they ‎go in opposite directions from one another to go forward, hence the ports being backwards. If you ‎plug them in as the same direction and tell both motors to spin in the same direction, your robot will ‎spin in a circle rather than drive forward! Weird, but true.‎

Running Your Script

We are going to use Microsoft MakeCode to program the micro:bit. Please open a browser window ‎and navigate to makecode.microbit.org. This should open the MakeCode environment that you ‎used to install the moto:bit package in.‎

Did you install the moto:bit package? To add the moto:bit package as instructed in the Installing ‎the moto:bit Package in MakeCode section of this tutorial.‎

running_77

Note: If this is your first time programming a micro:bit please be sure to see our Getting Started ‎with the micro:bit tutorial on how to get your MakeCode program onto your micro:bit.‎

Now, you can either download the following example script below and drag and drop it onto your ‎micro:bit or use it as an example and build it from scratch in MakeCode.‎

makecode_78

makecode.microbit

Microsoft MakeCode | Terms of Use | Privacy | Download

Code to Note

Let's take a look at the code and what to expect.‎

note_79

On Start

The code starts by setting each motor channel in the on start code block. Depending on how the ‎motors are wired to the moto:bit, your micro:bot may drive in the opposite direction than what you ‎would expect. The set ____ motor invert to ____ provides the option to switch the motor wires ‎in code without physically rewiring the motors to the moto:bit. Set the left or right motor that you ‎would like to invert. If you want the motor to drive in the opposite direction relative to your setup, ‎select either true or false.‎

On Button Pressed

The on button __ pressed code block is an event function. Any code blocks that are placed inside ‎of the block will only execute when that event happens. In this block, when the A button is pressed ‎on your micro:bit your robot will start moving. When it gets to the end of the program it will stop ‎again until you press the A button again.‎

Turn Motors

The turn motors __ block gives you the ability to turn the motors ON or OFF in software. They are ‎naturally OFF, so anytime you want to drive motors, you need to set them to ON. A good practice is ‎to turn them OFF when your robot completes its task or should not be moving for long periods of ‎time, this saves batteries and wasted power consumption.‎

Move Motors At

The move ____ motor _______ at _ % block is the basis of the moto:bit software package. You use ‎this block by selecting the values in the drop-down menu:‎

  • which motor you want to control (RIGHT or LEFT)
  • its direction (FORWARD or REVERSE)‎
  • the throttle / power percentage you would like the motor to spin at (0-100%)‎

For your bot to move forward you need to have both motors drive in the same direction. To turn, or ‎pivot, you set the motor directions in an opposite configuration.‎

Pause

The pause (ms) ____ block is like a code stop sign. It tells the micro:bit to wait for a given amount ‎of time in milliseconds. While it is waiting, whatever you told before the pause will keep happening. ‎So, if you want your robot to drive forward for 1 second, you set the robot's motors to drive forward ‎and then pause for 1000 milliseconds and then have the motors do something else, like stop.‎

What You Should See

Once your script uploads to your micro:bit, make sure the motors switch is changed from "STOP ‎MOTORS" to "RUN MOTORS." Press the A button on your micro:bit and your robot will drive ‎forward for 1 second, pivot, and the drive forward for another second before stopping. Pressing ‎the button again will have the robot repeat the sequence.‎

uploads_80

Here is a demo of the micro:bot driving.‎

 

But wait? The micro:bot appears to be driving in the reverse relative to the front of the robot even ‎though we told the robot to move forward in the code?!? There are a few reasons why this may be ‎happening. Depending on how the motors were manufactured, they wires may be switched. Or the ‎wires were connected incorrectly.‎

One method is to use the set ____ motor invert to ____ block for each motor without rewiring ‎the motors. Simply invert the motors setting each to true. The following experiments will invert the ‎motor wire connection relative to how we assembled the robot earlier.‎

block_81

The other method is to physically rewire the motor wires. Simply flip the wire connections for each ‎channel in order for the robot to move forward. Connect the "LEFT MOTOR" channel's red wire to ‎the silkscreen labeled as "BLACK" and black wire wire to the silkscreen labeled as "RED". Then flip ‎the wires for the "RIGHT MOTOR" channel with the right motor. The wiring may look similar to the ‎image shown below on the right. If you flip the wires after this point, make sure to set left motor ‎invert to ____ and set right motor invert to ____ back to false for future experiments.‎

before_82

Before Flipping the Wires

after_83

After Flipping Wires

Go Further: Now that you have a moving robot, can you write a program that would tell your robot ‎to drive in a square? How about a star? What about having it dance?‎

Troubleshooting

  • moto:bit package is not showing up - Try installing it again from the add package option in ‎MakeCode
  • Micro:Bit Not Showing Up on My Machine - Try unplugging the USB cable and plugging it ‎back in. Also, be sure that you have the cable inserted all the way into your micro:bit
  • Robot Not Moving - Make sure your motors are hooked up correctly in the motor ports and ‎your motor power switch is set to "RUN Motors", the battery pack is plugged in, and you have ‎fresh batteries
  • micro:Bot Not Driving in a Straight Line - Try adjusting left or right motor's % to calibrate
  • Moving in Reverse?! - There are two options if you notice the micro:bot moving in the wrong ‎direction. As explained above, you can flip the wiring of your motors or use the set ____ ‎motor invert to ____ block in your on start block to change what is forward vs. reverse

Experiment 2: Staying in a Box

Introduction

Robots are smart! They are smart because they use sensors to detect what the world around them ‎and then respond to those conditions. One of the conditions our robot can respond to is the ‎darkness of the surface that it is driving on. It can detect lines, a gradient of darkness or a blacked-‎out area. In this experiment you will program your robot to stay inside of a box that you have drawn ‎on a surface.‎

Parts Needed

You will need the following parts:‎

  • ‎1x micro:bit board (Not Included with Kit)
  • 1x Micro-B USB Cable (Not Included with Kit)
  • ‎1x moto:bit Carrier Board
  • 2x Wheels
  • ‎1x Assembled Shadow Chassis
  • ‎2x Hobby Gear Motors
  • ‎1x 4xAA Battery Holder‎
  • ‎4x AA Batteries (Not Included with Kit)
  • ‎3x Analog Line Following Sensors
  • ‎3x 3-Pin Jumper Wires

Didn’t get the kit? Have no fear! Here are the parts you will need to complete this experiment. You ‎may not need everything though depending on what you have. Add it to your cart, read through ‎the guide, and adjust the cart, as necessary.‎

Suggested Reading

Before continuing on with this experiment, we recommend you be familiar with the concepts in the ‎following tutorial:‎

  • Getting Started with the micro:bit: The BBC micro:bit is a compact, powerful programming ‎tool that requires no software installation. Read on to learn how to use it YOUR way!‎

Introduction to the Line Sensors

The line follower sensor is an add-on for your shadow chassis that gives your robot the ability to ‎detect lines or nearby objects. The sensor works by detecting reflected light coming from its own ‎infrared LED. By measuring the amount of reflected infrared light, it can detect transitions from light ‎to dark (lines) or even objects directly in front of it.‎

sensor_84

The sensor has a 3-pin header which connects directly to the moto:bit carrier board via female-to-‎female jumper wires. A mounting hole lets you easily connect one or more of these to the front or ‎back of your robot chassis.‎

The IR Reflectance sensors work best when they are close to the surface below the micro:bot. The ‎sensor should be about 1/8" above the table. This is an optimal distance for the IR transmitter to ‎illuminate the surface below and measure the reflected light. (Note: Human eyes are non-sensitive ‎to IR light, but if you use a CCD camera -- like the one in your phone -- you can see a small light ‎shining out of the front element.)

irled_85

Here, you can see a faint pink glow from the IR LED. This is picked up on most digital cameras ‎and cell phones.

Note that the cable wires for the micro:bot are different as opposed to the ones ‎used in this image.‎

Hardware Hookup

Like the motors, you should have already hooked up the line sensors during the assembly portion ‎of this guide. You can go there now for the full assembly instructions. Double check to make sure ‎that the wires are hooked up to your line sensors correctly!‎

hookup_86

The line sensors hookup to your moto:bit via female / female jumper wires that snake through the ‎chassis of your robot up to the moto:bit. The sensors hookup to the moto:bit in the following order:‎

  • LEFT => P0
  • CENTER => P1
  • RIGHT => P2

Double check to make sure they are hooked up correctly and in the proper orientation:‎

check_87

Running Your Script

Be sure to add the moto:bit package as instructed in the Installing the moto:bit Package in ‎MakeCode section of this tutorial.‎

Now, you can either download the following example script below and drag and drop it onto your ‎micro:bit or use it as an example and build it from scratch in MakeCode.‎

Calibration is very important with the line sensors to work accurately. Your environment will greatly ‎affect the P1 analog readings and thresholds for the surface value so you might have to customize ‎these numbers to suit your application.‎

 

 

Code to Note

Let's take a look at the code and what to expect.‎

code_89

Experiment2_micro-bit_micro-bot_MakeCode_black_line_2

Initialize Serial Output

When the code first starts, we initialize a serial output on the micro:bit to send serial to the USB. ‎Using the serial redirect to USB code block defaults the 115200 baud. This is useful whenever ‎we need to inspect the sensor readings and interpret the values in a serial terminal.‎

Set Motors

We will need to set the motors depending on how the motors are wired to the moto:bit. In this case, ‎we will be setting both motors to true to be consistent with how we assembled the robot earlier.‎

Creating a Variable

In Microsoft MakeCode, you need to be able to create variables to store information for your robot ‎to compare against, or to just remember. You can use the built-in variables under the Variables ‎drawer as shown below.‎

variable_90

But you can also make your own custom variables. To do this click on the Variables drawer and ‎select Make New Variable. You can then name it and use it in your program. In this case, we are ‎going to create two new variables. One to have the micro:bit remember what our black line looks ‎like (i.e., black_line) and another for the current sensor reading (current_surface_reading).‎

custom_91

Set To

To store a value or piece of information in a variable you use the set _______ to block. This allows ‎you to select a variable and set it to a value or block of your choice. In this case, the line following ‎sensor value connected to pin P1. We do this once in the on start block to get a base reading ‎from the sensor so that our micro:bit remembers the value of the black line. This calibrates the ‎sensor for the micro:bot. Pressing button A while the program is running will also save the line ‎sensor reading again.‎

Analog Read Pin

To get that base reading from the line sensor we use the analog read pin __ block to get an ‎analog value (0 - 1023) from the line sensor.1023 is totally black and 0 is totally saturated white. ‎Your surface will be something probably in between.‎

If Condition Statements

To compare the current reading of the line sensor to its known baseline value that was captured ‎and stored in the on start block, we use an if statement block. The if block accepts a logical ‎statement. If that statement (current_surface_reading ≥ black_line - 100) is true, then ‎the if block runs then "then" section of code. If that statement is false, then the "else" section of ‎the block is run.‎

You may be asking yourself why to subtract 100 from the surface value. Well, that number is a ‎sensitivity value. The sensor reading fluctuates as the robot moves around and when the motors ‎are running. By subtracting 100 from the original surface variable, we give the change in lighting a ‎‎"wiggle room" or tolerance of 100. If you want your sensor to be more sensitive, you will make the ‎number smaller. If you need it less sensitive, make it bigger.‎

To debug, we'll send serial to the USB before the condition statement and animate the LEDs of the ‎micro:bit within each condition statement show icon _____ (or show leds _____) block to help ‎visualize when the micro:bot moves forward, back, or to the left.‎

What You Should See

Serial Output

Heads up! To view the serial output using the Chrome browser and the MakeCode's serial plotter ‎and terminal, the micro:bit will need to have 0249, 0250 or higher. To update, make sure to follow ‎these instructions from micro:bit's support to display live serial data MakeCode console.

MICRO:BIT FIRMWARE UPDATE

You can pair, upload code to the micro:bit, and view the output on the MakeCode console without ‎having to drag and drop the file to the micro:bit after updating the firmware. For more information ‎about using the WebUSB feature on MakeCode, make sure to check out the instructions provided ‎by micro:bit support.

DISPLAYING REAL TIME SERIAL DATA IN THE MAKECODE CONSOLE

Otherwise, you can use your favorite serial terminal or program to real time, serial data plotter to ‎graph the output.‎

For the scope of this tutorial, we'll use the MakeCode console to output the serial output. If you ‎have paired the micro:bit to your computer and used the one-click download feature for MakeCode, ‎a "Show console Device" button should appear in MakeCode. Click on the button to view the ‎serial output. A graph and serial monitor will appear over the MakeCode code editor. This is due to ‎the graph automatically resizing. You may notice that there is no data graphed and a number on the ‎bottom left. The serial monitor will also display a number with a counter. The counter indicates how ‎many times we output the same value. Try moving the line following sensor around the surface of a ‎table. Keep in mind that the micro:bit in the simulator does not reflect the LEDs on the physical ‎micro:bit in real-time.‎

real_92

Heads up! Each time you disconnect the micro:bit from your computer, you will need to re-connect ‎the micro:bit by pairing it to the web browser. The "Show console Display" button may disappear. ‎After pairing the micro:bit again and using the one-click Download feature, the button should re-‎appear.‎

You will notice that the data will start jumping around as the line following sensor on P1 reads the ‎surface. Below is a snapshot of the line following sensor on a white table. The surface that the ‎sensor was reading was not perfectly white and caused the sensor readings to jump around ~693 ‎to ~721. You may see a different output depending on the line following sensor, surface, and ‎distance between the sensor and surface.

white_93

To better understand what is going on when the line following sensor sees a dark black line, we'll ‎place different surfaces under the sensor. We'll use the following three surfaces to illustrate what is ‎happening in the graph:‎

  • white table
  • brown cardboard
  • black electrical tape

white_94

White Table under P1

brown_95

Brown Cardboard under P1‎

black_96

Black Electrical Tape under ‎P1‎

The MakeCode serial plotter automatically zooms in/out so it may be hard to view the data at first. ‎Placing a different surface under the sensor with the micro:bot staying still makes it easy to see the ‎output once the console zooms out. Here's the raw output after placing the table, cardboard, and ‎electrical tape under the sensor for a few seconds.‎

plotter_97

Let's look at the same graph but highlighted for the different surfaces. The output highlighted in ‎blue was the surface that we initially read (which was ~693 to ~721). The small changes in the ‎readings seem insignificant when comparing the output to other surfaces. Placing a small piece of ‎brown cardboard under the sensor will cause the sensor readings to drop a certain range. The ‎surface of the cardboard was a bit higher than the surface of the table. In this case, it was ‎about ~82 to ~85 as highlighted in green. Moving the sensor over a dark black line will cause the ‎sensor readings to jump to a certain range again. In this case, the values were around ~943 to ‎‎~983 as highlighted in red. Feel free to take some notes down on paper to remember what your ‎range is for different surfaces.‎

graph_98

If you turn on the motor and have the micro:bot take a few steps across each surface, you'll notice ‎that the output starts becoming noisy instead of being a steady output. This is due to the small ‎differences across the surface and the IR light being reflected back while the micro:bot is moving. ‎There also might be some noise coming from the batteries whenever the motors pull power and ‎sunlight coming from the windows.‎

turn_99

If we inspect the output when the sensor is over the white table (highlighted in blue), the readings ‎jump around ~632 to ~813. This is a bit bigger than what we initially read. If we inspect the output ‎when the sensor is over the brown cardboard surface (highlighted in green), the readings jump ‎around between ~60 to ~650. This is bigger than what we initially read. One reason for this is that ‎the brown cardboard is not uniform throughout the material. Additionally, the distance between the ‎line following sensor and cardboard became the same as when it was driving over the white table. If ‎we inspect the output when the sensor is over black electrical tape (highlighted in red), the ‎readings jump around ~932 to ~988. This is a bit bigger than what we initially read with the white ‎table but not as big as the brown cardboard surface.‎

inspect_100

Note: The distance between the line following sensor and the surface matters! Make sure that your ‎surface is flat, and the wheels are on the surface that it is traveling on. Any deformities on the ‎surface can affect the line following sensor readings. Remember to have a distance of about 1/8" ‎above the surface by having the wheels and nub caster over the material that it is traveling on.

distance_101

Distance Between Line Following Sensor and ‎Surface Too Close

optimum_102

Optimum Distance Between Line Following ‎Sensor and Surface

Now that we understand the output, we can head back into the code to adjust it as necessary where ‎it says black_line - 100 to distinguish a light surface (white table or brown cardboard) from a dark ‎surface (i.e., black electrical tape). Since we know that the values for a dark black line will be ‎anything above ~932, we take that baseline value connected to P1 and subtract it by 100. ‎Subtracting it by a value of 100 gives the line following sensor some tolerances in case there is an ‎error in reading a black line. As a result, anything above ~832 will be recognized as a black line. The ‎image below highlights the area in red where it is black_line - 100. If the current reading is above ‎the boundary (indicated by the red line), the micro:bot will recognize it as the black electrical tape. ‎Keep in mind that the analog sensor is not able to go higher than 1023, so anything between ~823 ‎to ~1023 will be recognized as a dark line and does not need to be included in the code. ‎Depending on your surfaces, you may need to adjust the value as necessary to change the ‎sensitivity.‎

sense_103

Roaming micro:bot

Once your code is loaded find a light surface, preferably white, and add a line of black electrical ‎tape to the surface. For simplicity, let's make the width of the line between 1.5 inches and 2.0 ‎inches. Continue adding black electrical tape until you make a square. In fact, if you have a large ‎enough space, you can create a 3-foot square you will be perfect! Place the center line following ‎sensor connected to P1 on the black line. Then press the RESET button on your micro:bit. The ‎micro:bot will remember what a black line looks like. Make sure to change the motor switch from ‎‎"STOP MOTORS" to "RUN MOTORS." If you ever need to re-calibrate the sensor while the code is ‎running, simply place the line following sensor connected to P1 over the dark black line and press ‎the A button.‎

stop_104

Switch Flipped to STOP MOTORS

run_105

Switch Flipped to RUN MOTORS

The micro:bot will try to move away from the black line by backing up and turn to the left a bit. Your ‎robot will attempt to drive forward until the black tape is directly under the center line sensors. ‎When that happens your robot will stop, reverse, pivot to the left a bit, and try to drive forward again ‎before hitting a line once more. If it works correctly and your robot is within the black square line, ‎your robot should stay inside of the box forever!‎

Roaming micro bot

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Go Further: So, you have built a robot corral! There is a lot of resources being used causing the ‎micro:bot to drive slowly. Try removing the serial output, removing the show LEDs code blocks, ‎adjusting the speed of the motors, and tweaking the pause blocks to see if you can get the ‎micro:bot to move faster in the square. Or maybe try to use what you now know to build a maze for ‎your robot to solve on its own! Better yet, try adjusting the logic used in the if statements to have ‎the micro:bot driving on a black surface and contained within a white line.‎

Troubleshooting

  • Moto:Bit blocks not showing up - Make sure you have a network connection and you have ‎added the package to your makeCode environment
  • Micro:Bit Not Showing Up on My Machine - Try unplugging the USB cable and plugging it ‎back in. Also, be sure that you have the cable inserted all the way into your micro:bit
  • Robot Not Moving - Make sure your motors are hooked up correctly in the motor ports and ‎your motor power switch is set to “RUN Motors”, the battery pack is plugged in, and you have ‎fresh batteries
  • Robot Not Driving Forward - If your motors are hooked up correctly and we have inverted ‎both motors in the code, try hitting the reset button on the micro:bit. This can happen after ‎uploading when initially powering the micro:bit up
  • Moving in Reverse?! - There are two options if you notice the micro:bot moving in the wrong ‎direction. As explained above, you can flip the wiring of your motors or use the set ____ ‎motor invert to ____ block in your on start block to change what is forward vs. reverse
  • Robot Drives Over the Black Line - Your motors may still be running as the micro:bit is ‎updating the LEDs pausing or sending serial data to the USB. Make sure to have the micro:bot ‎drive forward slowly (but not to slow where the motors will not move) before taking an ‎additional sensor reading. You can also try to adjust the values or remove the blocks of code ‎used for debugging. If the micro:bot drives to fast, it will not be able to see the width of the ‎black line. The width of the line may be too small or the material for the black line might not be ‎dark enough for the micro:bot to see. Try increasing the width of the black line or changing ‎the material (i.e., besides black electrical tape, try using a darker paint, marker, pencil, etc.) ‎used for the black line
  • Robot Doesn't Detect Line - If changing the width of your line doesn't help, remember line ‎sensor calibration settings can be very sensitive depending on your environment. Press the A ‎button to calibrate when the robot is on the black_line or change the value being subtracted ‎from the black_line.‎

Experiment 3: Following a Line

Introduction

OK, you have your robot staying inside of box drawn on the floor, but that still seems a little odd ‎and random. You want your robot to go somewhere, do something and then keep going! In this ‎experiment, you will elaborate what you learned from Experiment 2 to get your robot to follow a line.‎

Parts Needed

You will need the following parts:‎

  • 1x micro:bit board (Not Included with Kit)
  • 1x Micro-B USB cable (Not Included with Kit)
  • 1x moto:bit Carrier Board
  • 2x Wheels
  • ‎1x Assembled Shadow Chassis
  • 2x Hobby Gear Motors
  • 1x 4xAA Battery Holder
  • ‎4x AA Batteries (Not Included with Kit)
  • 3x Analog Line Following Sensors
  • 3x 3-Pin Jumper Wires

Didn’t get the kit? Have no fear! Here are the parts you will need to complete this experiment. You ‎may not need everything though depending on what you have. Add it to your cart, read through ‎the guide, and adjust the cart, as necessary.‎

Suggested Reading

  • Getting Started with the micro:bit: The BBC micro:bit is a compact, powerful programming ‎tool that requires no software installation. Read on to learn how to use it YOUR way!‎

Introduction to Using Multiple Line Sensors

In the previous experiment, you used a single line sensor (the middle sensor) to detect the line on ‎the floor. That is great for staying inside of a line, but now, you need to follow a line. That is where ‎the other two-line sensors come in.‎

linesensor_106

Essentially, you want the center sensor to detect the line, but not the other two, meaning that the ‎robot is centered on the line. If one of the side sensors detect a line it means that you are veering ‎to one side or another and your robot should correct itself. We will use the information from ‎multiple sensors combined with an if/else statement block to build a decision tree for your robot ‎to follow. For simplicity, we will start with using just two of the line sensors (the left and right ‎sensors) to follow a dark black line. As you add more line following sensors to a robot, the code can ‎get complex. However, the robot will be able to follow a line better.‎

follow_107

P0 and P2 Reading a Black Line

Hardware Hookup

Note: If you already hooked up your sensors in Experiment 2, please skip this section.‎

Like the motors, you should have already hooked up the line sensors during the assembly portion ‎of this guide. You can go there now for the full assembly instructions. Double check to make sure ‎that the wires are hooked up to your line sensors correctly!‎

full_108

hookup_109

The line sensors hookup to your moto:bit via female / female jumper wires that snake through the ‎chassis of your robot up to the moto:bit. The sensors hookup to the moto:bit in the following order:‎

  • LEFT => PO
  • CENTER => P1
  • RIGHT => P2‎

Double check to make sure they are hooked up correctly and in the proper orientation.‎

double_110

Experiment 3a -- Simple IR Sensor Reading

Let's break up this experiment into two parts. First, we will have the micro:bot follow a straight dark, ‎black line. Then we will have a slightly more complex path to try to have the micro:bot drive around ‎a path with a zigzagged pattern.‎

Running Your Script

Be sure to add the moto:bit package as instructed in the Installing the moto:bit Package in ‎MakeCode section of this tutorial.‎

Now, you can either download the following example script below and drag and drop it onto your ‎micro:bit or use it as an example and build it from scratch in MakeCode.‎

Calibration is very important with the line sensors to work accurately. Your environment will greatly ‎affect the P0 and P2 analog readings and thresholds for the surface values so you might have to ‎customize these numbers to suit your application.

 

Code to Note

Let’s take a look at the code and what to expect.‎

look_112

Experiment3a_micro-bit_micro-bot_line-following

black_Line_L and black_Line_R

Like in the previous experiment, you need to set a baseline value for the surface that your robot is ‎driving on. This is actually called a calibration value. We need to do this for two sensors now; left ‎and right. We go through the same routine we did for the single sensor previously, but for the left ‎and right sensors.‎

Comma Delimiter

For debugging, we set up the serial again. However, we will use the join block with a comma ‎delimiter. This is useful for graphing more than one sensor readings.‎

On Button Press

As in the first experiment, we use the On Button Press block to start the program. Since we are ‎using button A again to recalibrate the line following sensors whenever we need, we'll be using ‎button B to start the program. This is so you can get a good base reading to calibrate your sensors ‎without having to wrestle with a robot that is trying to move around. To remind us to press button B, ‎the on start block displays a short animation once to point at button B. If the motor switch is ‎flipped to the RUN MOTORS side, pressing button B will cause the micro:bot to start following a ‎line.‎

While

The While block is a logic block that is similar to the loop block, but a bit smarter. The While block ‎accepts a TRUE/FALSE statement, if that statement is true the block will loop whatever code is ‎placed inside of it. If that value is false, the While block is simply skipped over. We hardcode ‎a true value into the While block so that it constantly loops when the B button is pressed. That way ‎we have the benefits of both the event block and the loop block without needing complicated ‎programming.‎

If Condition Statements

We'll use if/else statements once again to check the sensor readings and move the micro:bot:‎

  • Case 1:
    • If both are reading the same, move forward.‎

case-1_113

  • Case 2:
    • If the left sensor sees a dark black line but the other does not, move forward and a ‎little to the left toward the dark black line closer to the left side of the micro:bot.‎

case-2_114

  • Case 3:
  • If the right sensor sees a dark black line but the other does not, move forward and a ‎little to the right toward the dark black line closer to the right side of the micro:bot. ‎There are slight differences in the motors and wheels, so we tweak the left motor ‎strength a bit so that the micro:bot actually turns toward the right (50 + 5).‎

case-3_115

  • Case 4:
    • ‎If we do not see a dark black line, stop.‎

case-4_116

What You Should See

Serial Output

Heads up! To view the serial output using the Chrome browser and the MakeCode's serial plotter ‎and terminal, the micro:bit will need to have 0249, 0250 or higher. To update, make sure to follow ‎these instructions from micro:bit's support to display live serial data MakeCode console.

MICRO:BIT FIRMWARE UPDATE‎

You can pair, upload code to the micro:bit, and view the output on the MakeCode console without ‎having to drag and drop the file to the micro:bit after updating the firmware. For more information ‎about using the WebUSB feature on MakeCode, make sure to check out the instructions provided ‎by micro:bit support.

DISPLAYING REAL TIME SERIAL DATA IN THE MAKECODE CONSOLE‎

Otherwise, you can use your favorite serial terminal or program to real time, serial data plotter to ‎graph the output.‎

We'll use the MakeCode console to output the serial output again. If you have paired the micro:bit ‎to your computer and used the one-click download feature for MakeCode, a "Show console ‎Device" button should appear in MakeCode. Click on the button to view the serial output.‎

You will notice that the data will start jumping around as the line following sensors on P0 and P2 ‎read the surface. Below is a snapshot of the line following sensors on a light surface. Notice that ‎the output of both sensors was not the same. This is due to the slight differences in the line ‎following sensors. You may see a different output with your sensors.‎

data_117

Moving the micro:bot over a piece of brown cardboard and black electrical tape, you will notice that ‎the sensor readings move at the same time when the graph zooms out.‎

white_118

White Table under P0 and P2‎

brown_119

Brown Cardboard under P0 ‎and P2‎

black_120

Black Electrical Tape under ‎P0 and P2‎

For this reading, we moved the micro:bot further into the cardboard so that the distance between ‎the line following sensors and cardboard box were the same.‎

reading_121

Let's look at the same graph but highlighted for the different surfaces. Overall, the output is similar ‎to what we saw in experiment 2 when the motors are turned off.‎

graph_122

The image below highlights the area where it is above black_line_L - 100 and black_line_R - ‎‎100. Note that we need to do this for the left and right line following sensor due to the slight ‎differences. As a result, anything above ~875 for the left line following sensor (as indicated by the ‎red line) is probably a dark surface. Additionally, anything above ~892 for the right line following ‎sensor (as indicated by the black line) is probably a dark surface.‎

highlights_123

As we turn on the motors for the micro:bot and view the data, the output will become noisy instead ‎of being a steady output. You'll also see the output become slightly bigger whenever the motors are ‎turned on whenever it tries to follow a dark black line. The image below highlights the area when ‎both sensors see a dark black line. When this happens, the micro:bot will drive forward.‎

view_124

The image below shows when the left line following sensor (when it is above black_line_L - 100) ‎sees a dark black line. The motors turn on and tries to move toward the line on the left. Note that ‎the right line following sensor stays around the same value but becomes noisy.‎

line_125

The image below shows when the right line following sensor (when it is above black_line_R - 100) ‎sees a dark black line. The motors turn on and tries to move toward the line on the right. Note that ‎the left line following sensor stays around the same value but becomes noisy.‎

value_126

Straight Line Following micro:bot

Once you have loaded your script, place your robot on a dark black line on a light / white ‎background. Make sure you have it centered with the line just underneath the center line sensor. ‎Make sure the motor switch is changed from "STOP MOTORS" to "RUN MOTORS" and press the ‎B button to start.‎

stop_127

Stop Motors

run_128

Run Motors

robot_129

Your robot should drive forward until one of the sideline sensors detects the dark black line and ‎then it will turn in that direction to correct itself. Depending on your line shape and thickness your ‎robot may "waddle" more or less. If you have the motors running too fast, it will continue moving ‎until it sees a light surface. Make sure to have the robot slowly move forward or it may fall of the ‎edge of a table!‎

 

Experiment 3b -- Following a Course with Zigzags

Now that the micro:bot can follow a straight line, let's try to have the micro:bot follow simple polygon ‎with zigzags.‎

lines_130

Running Your Script

Be sure to add the moto:bit package as instructed in the Installing the moto:bit Package in ‎MakeCode section of this tutorial.‎

Now, you can either download the following example script below and drag and drop it onto your ‎micro:bit or use it as an example and build it from scratch in MakeCode.‎

Calibration is very important with the line sensors to work accurately. Your environment will greatly ‎affect the P0 and P2 analog readings and thresholds for the surface values so you might have to ‎customize these numbers to suit your application.‎

values_131

makecode.microbit

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Code to Note

Let’s take a look at the code and what to expect.‎

code_132

Experiment3b_micro-bit_micro-bot_line-following_corners_zigzag_course

Modified If Condition Statement

Most of the code used for experiment 3B is pretty much the same when following a black line. You ‎should see the same condition statements for case 1 through case 3 when using P0 and P2 as the ‎micro:bot attempts to follow a dark black line.‎

moving_133

Case 1 - Moving Forward

moving_134

Case 2 - Moving Forward ‎and Left

moving_135

Case 3 - Moving Forward ‎and Right

However, case 4 will be adjusted to keep searching for a path. If we do not see a dark black line, ‎we will take a step back and search three times to the left. The variable move_left will keep track of ‎how many times we have looked to the left. Each time we search to the left, we will increase the ‎power of the motor so that we do not get stuck in the same spot. After the 3rd time, we will try ‎looking to the right before starting all over again.‎

reset_136

We will only want to use the move_left variable in case 4. We'll reset the variable whenever we go ‎into the other cases.‎

What You Should See

The serial output will be the same if you open the MakeCode console. If you need, you can open it ‎back up to view the output. If you have not already, make a track on a flat surface with varying ‎edges. Make sure that there is enough of material adjacent to the track. If the wheels or nub caster ‎run off the track, it may have problems trying to get back on the surface. We used a cardboard ‎surface with black electrical tape for this experiment. Additional cardboard was attached to prevent ‎the micro:bot from getting stuck.‎

lines_137

This example works well to follow small changes in the line for turns but will also adjust for sharp ‎turns. You'll follow the same steps to get the robot to start following a line. The only difference is ‎that the robot will follow a zigzagged course in this example. By default, the micro:bot will attempt to ‎correct itself to eventually follow a track in a counterclockwise motion. Keep in mind that there are ‎limitations in following a dark black line when only using only two-line following sensors. Additionally, ‎the surface was not completely flat. As you can see from the GIF below that the floor was rocking ‎as the micro:bot was following the line. Adding more line following sensors can help the micro:bot ‎follow a line better and keep it from driving off the track.‎

Line_Following_Robot_Sharp_Turns

Go Further: Your robot can go where you tell it by following a line. We've just scratched the ‎surface for line following problems. Here are some more challenges to explore and experiment: ‎

  • Try adding more code to utilize the center line following sensor.‎
  • Instead of having the robot follow a counterclockwise motion, try have the robot move in a ‎clockwise motion.‎
  • Adjust the code to follow a dark black line for a complex maze
  • Adjust the motor speed and remove the LED array to see how fast your line following robot ‎can move along the line without veering off the course.‎
  • Use the built-in accelerometer to increase the motor speed whenever the micro:bot is on a ‎slanted surface so that the robot can navigate rough terrain.‎
  • Add an additional mode to invert the condition statements to follow a light white line against a ‎dark surface instead of a dark black line against a light surface.‎
  • Try adjusting the width of your track to see if the robot can follow a narrower line.‎

Troubleshooting

  • Robot Drives in a Circle - Double check your wiring and your code, your robot is not seeing ‎the line. Also, double check that there isn't something like dust blocking your sensor.‎
  • Robot Isn't Moving - Pesky motor switch! Make sure that is set to "run" and you have fresh ‎batteries.‎
  • Robot Not Driving Forward - If your motors are hooked up correctly and we have inverted ‎both motors in the code, try hitting the reset button on the micro:bit. This can happen after ‎uploading when initially powering the micro:bit up.‎
  • Moving in Reverse?! - There are two options if you notice the micro:bot moving in the wrong ‎direction. As explained above, you can flip the wiring of your motors or use the set ____ ‎motor invert to ____ block in your on start block to change what is forward vs. reverse.
  • Robot Waddles a Lot! - Change the width of your line.
  • Robot Doesn't Detect Line - If changing the width of your line doesn't help, remember line ‎sensor calibration settings can be very sensitive depending on your environment. Also, the ‎code calibrates when the micro:bot starts up. Make sure to have the sensors over a black line.‎

Experiment 4: Using the Accelerometer

Introduction

Now, what happens when something bumps into your robot? It just stays there and take it from this ‎bully? No! It should move out of the way or do something. In this experiment you will use the ‎accelerometer on the micro:bit to trigger the robot to move out of the way. If you flip the robot on ‎its back or stand it on end it will stop driving (play dead)!‎

Parts Needed

You will need the following parts:‎

  • 1x micro:bit board (Not Included with Kit)
  • ‎1x Micro-B USB Cable (Not Included with Kit)
  • ‎1x moto:bit carrier board
  • ‎2x Wheels
  • ‎1x Assembled Shadow Chassis
  • ‎2x Hobby Gear Motors
  • 1x 4xAA Battery Holder
  • ‎4x AA Batteries (Not Included with Kit)‎

Didn’t get the kit? Have no fear! Here are the parts you will need to complete this experiment. You ‎may not need everything though depending on what you have. Add it to your cart, read through ‎the guide, and adjust the cart, as necessary.‎

Suggested Reading

  • What is Electricity? We can see electricity in action on our computers, lighting our houses, as ‎lightning strikes in thunderstorms, but what is it? This is not an easy question, but this tutorial will ‎shed some light on it!‎
  • Accelerometer Basics: A quick introduction to accelerometers, how they work, and why ‎they're used.‎
  • Getting Started with the micro:bit: The BBC micro:bit is a compact, powerful programming ‎tool that requires no software installation. Read on to learn how to use it YOUR way!‎

Introduction to the Accelerometer

On the back of the micro:bit you can see a number of small chips. One of them is the accelerometer. ‎The micro:bit has an onboard accelerometer that measures gravitational force. Depending on the ‎version that you have, the accelerometer and compass can be on separate ICs or combined into a ‎single IC.‎

separate_ 138

v1.0 w/ Accelerometer on Separate IC

combined_139

v1.5 w/ Combined Accelerometer and ‎Magnetometer

Note: For more information about the motion sensor hardware change, check out this article from ‎micro:bit support. ‎

MICRO:BIT SUPPORT: MOTION SENSOR HARDWARE CHANGE

An accelerometer is a sensor that measures the gravitational forces pulling on it in all three ‎dimensions of the chip's X, Y and Z axes.‎

sensor_140

Visualization of a Common Accelerometer (ADXL345) with Three Axes

Accelerometers are devices that measure acceleration, which is the rate of change of the velocity of ‎an object. They measure in meters per second squared (m/s2) or in G-forces (g). A single G-force ‎for us here on planet Earth is equivalent to 9.8 m/s2, but this does vary slightly with elevation (and ‎will be a different value on different planets due to variations in gravitational pull). Accelerometers ‎are useful for sensing vibrations in systems or for orientation applications. Vibration is what we are ‎looking for!‎

Hardware Hookup

You have had the hardware hooked up the whole time! It is on the micro:bit! Feel free to move on.‎

Running Your Script

Be sure to add the moto:bit package as instructed in the Installing the moto:bit Package in ‎MakeCode section of this tutorial.‎

Now, you can either download the following example script below and drag and drop it onto your ‎micro:bit or use it as an example and build it from scratch in MakeCode.‎

script_141

makecode.microbit

MakeCode | Terms of Use | Privacy | Download

Code to Note

Let’s take a look at the code and what to expect.‎

look_142

On [Accelerometer]‎

The micro:bit has a built-in accelerometer that measures the gravitational forces that are acting upon ‎it. With other microcontrollers this is sometimes hard to use and make sense of the data you receive ‎from the sensor. But, MakeCode has simplified that for you in an event block under the Input ‎drawer (you will see it as On Shake) that allows you to pick a number of different force levels, ‎orientations and even patterns (like shaking it). We use this to detect a number of orientations that ‎you can put your robot in. For example, the motors will only be ON in the screen up orientation.‎

If you tap the robot hard enough it will run / drive away from you. If you flip, it over the motors will ‎turn off. Same thing holds true if you place it on its tail with the micro:bit pointing up.‎

Try playing around with the different events that you can trigger with the accelerometer. Can you ‎get it to detect bumping into an object like the wall and have it respond???‎

What You Should See

Once your code is loaded to your micro:bit and your motor switch is set to "RUN MOTORS." Your ‎robot should not do anything at first. Give it a good tap / smack on top of the micro:bit. If you apply ‎enough force to it your robot should run away. To stop your robot either flip the robot over to its ‎back the motors should stop or pick it up and set the robot on end with it sitting on its tail with the ‎micro:bit logo pointing up. To run the program again, return the robot to its wheels right side up and ‎smack it again.‎

 

Go Further: You can use the idea of detecting a bump in different ways. Try to write a program ‎that giving your robot a nudge or tap starts it to drive forward for a bit, then you need to nudge it ‎again a bit.‎

Troubleshooting

  • Robot Doesn't Move - Double check to make sure you have uploaded the new code to your ‎board. Also, make sure your motor switch is set to the "RUN MOTORS" position.
  • Moving in Reverse?! - There are two options if you notice the micro:bot moving in the wrong ‎direction. As explained above, you can flip the wiring of your motors or use the set ____ ‎motor invert to ____ block in your on start block to change what is forward vs. reverse.‎

Experiment 5: Controlling a Servo - Battle Bot

Introduction

Your robot should do something more than just drive around! Maybe control a small robotic arm, a ‎gripper or even a weapon of some kind. In this experiment you will integrate servo motors with your ‎robot to build a Battle Bot with Jousting Lances. This experiment combines all the elements you've ‎learned so far in this tutorial.‎

Parts Needed

You will need the following parts:

  • 1x micro:bit board (Not Included with Kit)‎
  • 1x Micro-B USB Cable (Not Included with Kit)‎
  • 1x moto:bit Carrier Board
  • 2x Wheels
  • 1x Assembled Shadow Chassis
  • 2x Hobby Gear Motors
  • 1x 4xAA Battery Holder‎
  • 4x AA Batteries (Not Included with Kit)
  • ‎3x Analog Line Following Sensors
  • 3x 3-Pin Jumper Wires
  • ‎2x Hobby Servos

Didn't get the kit? Have no fear! Here are the parts you will need to complete this experiment...‎

You Will Also Need

To complete this experiment, we are going to also need a few more components.‎

  • 2x Skewers (Not Included with Kit)
  • 2x Ping Pong Balls (Optional, Not Included with Kit)
  • Hot Glue or Tape (Not Included with Kit)
    • Note: 3M Command Walls Strips and Servo Tape can also be used as well (Not ‎Included with Kit)‎

Suggested Reading

  • Hobby Servo Tutorial: Servos are motors that allow you to accurately control the rotation of the ‎output shaft, opening up all kinds of possibilities for robotics and other projects.‎
  • Getting Started with the micro:bit: The BBC micro:bit is a compact, powerful programming ‎tool that requires no software installation. Read on to learn how to use it YOUR way!‎

Introduction to the Servo Motor

Unlike the action of most motors that continuously rotate, a servo motor can rotate to and hold a ‎specific angle until it is told to rotate to a different angle. You can control the angle of the servo by ‎sending it a Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) pulse train (turning a pin on and off really fast at ‎different intervals); the PWM signal is mapped to a specific angle from 0 to 180 degrees in the ‎servo block with MakeCode.‎

servo_143

Inside of the servo there is a gearbox connected to a motor that drives the shaft. There is also a ‎potentiometer that gives feedback on the rotational position of the servo, which is then compared to ‎the incoming PWM signal. The servo adjusts accordingly to match the two signals.‎

Hardware Hookup

In this experiment, you will actually be using two different servo motors to create a Battle Bot! One ‎will be used as a "left" jousting lance and the other as the "right". If you look at the servos, you will ‎notice that they have three wires have different colors: red, black and white. Red is the supply ‎voltage, black is ground and white is the signal. Hook the two servos up to the moto:bit at the two ‎labeled servo ports. Make sure you line up ground to ground.‎

hardware_144

The "left" is connected to pin P15 while the "right" servo is connected to pin P16. Using a bit of hot ‎glue or tape, you can attach the servos to each side of the robot chassis.‎

Next, you can build the jousting lances by utilizing some grilling skewers! You will only need two ‎that can be cut down to the needed size. You can either glue or tape each skewer to the servo to ‎the supplied attachments. Each servo set comes with a small bag of attachments as seen below. In ‎this experiment, we utilized the double arm micro horn, but any of them will work.‎

attachments_145

Don't have any skewers laying around? Be creative here!‎

Bot Assembled with Servos

Note: Electrical tape was used to mount the servo and skewers to the servo horns in this example. ‎You can also use glue to mount the servo and attach the skewers to the servo horns. 3M command ‎wall strips also work well to mount the servos to the chassis and can be easily removed if the servo ‎was mounted incorrectly. There is also servo tape that is used in RC cars and planes.‎

This Battle Bot utilized electrical tape to mount the jousting lances to the servo motors, and it ended ‎up looking something like this...‎

battlebot_146

Now, set your contraption aside until you have uploaded your code.‎

Note: When you think of jousting lances, they can have pointy ends. If you feel the need, grab a ‎set of ping pong balls and poke a hole carefully with the skewers. Secure the ping pong balls to the ‎skewers with some glue. If you need, check with an adult for assistance. ‎

lances_147

Not as terrifying but safe. ‎

safe_148

Running Your Script

Be sure to add the moto:bit package as instructed in the Installing the moto:bit Package in ‎MakeCode section of this tutorial.‎

Now, you can either download the following example script below and drag and drop it onto your ‎micro:bit or use it as an example and build it from scratch in MakeCode.‎

running_149

makecode.microbit

Microsoft MakeCode | Terms of Use | Privacy | Download

Code to Note

Don't be overwhelmed by everything this code has to offer! I know it looks rather menacing, but the ‎truth is that you've already done all of this code in previous experiments.‎

code_150

Experiment5_micro-bit_micro-bot_battle_bot

Servo Write Pin to

The Servo Write Pin to block is found under the Pins drawer and it accepts a pin number that you ‎have a servos signal wire attached to as well as an angle that you want it to rotate to. That's the ‎basics for controlling a servo motor with Microsoft MakeCode!‎

On Button A, On Button B and On Button A+B

In this example we use the On Button event blocks a lot. They allow us to break out different ‎functions we want without messy if statements.‎

In this program the On Button A event block resets the calibration value for the table surface for ‎the robot to use as a comparison value and also sets the servo positions to 90 degrees.‎

buttonb_151

The On Button B block is used to set servo position to 45 degrees.‎

buttonab_152

Finally, the On Button A+B event block is used to run the program.‎

If / Then Statements

You may notice that there is a few if / then blocks inside of the if statement in the forever block. ‎This will aid your Battle Bot in making decisions and knowing what it has to do next.‎

What You Should See

Before running the program, make a thick line (about 12" wide x 6" long) using black electrical tape. ‎This is where your robot will meet with an opposing robot.‎

When the code initializes, the servo "arms" will move into a starting position and take initial readings ‎for your line sensors to establish a comparison point to the ground environment. Make sure to ‎calibrate it with a black line before starting. Then place each robot at an equal distance away from ‎the line.‎

Initially, the Battle Bot will not move. Press on buttons A and B at the same time to run the program. ‎The robot will move forward if none of the line sensors detect the black line. If the center line ‎sensor detects a black line, the Battle Bot will immediately start both servos and move backwards. If ‎the left or right line sensors detect a dark surface, the side that detected it will have the ‎corresponding jousting lance start to move while turning away from it. So, your Battle Bot is ‎prepared to defend itself from any oncoming situation!‎

 

Go Further: Design two parallel tracks using a black surface. Separate the tracks with a center ‎‎"wall". Adjust the servos and extend the length of the skewers so that the robots can joust the other ‎robot across the wall. Design and program the robot to follow their respective paths without turning ‎back using the line following sensors. See who can disarm the other robot first. ‎

Or figure out a creative way for it to know when to drop something at a specific location. Could you ‎also program it to pick something up?‎

Troubleshooting

  • Robot Not Moving - Make sure your motors are hooked up correctly in the motor ports and ‎your motor power switch is set to "RUN Motors", the battery pack is plugged in, and you have ‎fresh batteries.‎
  • Moving in Reverse?! - There are two options if you notice the micro:bot moving in the wrong ‎direction. As explained above, you can flip the wiring of your motors or use the set ____ ‎motor invert to ____ block in your on start block to change what is forward vs. reverse.‎
  • Servo Moves in the Wrong Direction - Flip your servos or change your code so that it ‎rotates the correct direction.‎
  • Servo Doesn't Move at All! - Double check your connections of the servos to the moto:bit to ‎make sure that they are hooked up correctly.‎

Bonus Experiments!‎

Go further by pairing the micro:bot kit with parts from the micro:arcade kit!‎

Wireless_Remote_micro-bot_Battle_Bot_MicroBit

Wireless Remote Control with micro:bit

In this tutorial, we will utilize the MakeCode radio blocks to have the one micro:bit transmit a signal ‎to a receiving micro:bit on the same channel.

Eventually, we will control a micro:bot wirelessly using ‎parts from the arcade:kit!‎

Resources and Going Further

For more information about the moto:bit, check out the resources below:‎

制造商零件编号 KIT-16275
MICRO:BOT KIT - V2.0
SparkFun Electronics
¥657.21
Details
制造商零件编号 DEV-15713
MOTO:BIT QWIIC CARRIER BOARD
SparkFun Electronics
¥569.40
Details
SHADOW CHASSIS
制造商零件编号 ROB-13301
SHADOW CHASSIS
SparkFun Electronics
¥118.47
Details
制造商零件编号 SEN-11769
SPARKFUN REDBOT SENSOR - LINE FO
SparkFun Electronics
¥28.49
Details
制造商零件编号 ROB-09065
SERVOMOTOR RC 6V GENERIC SUB-MIC
SparkFun Electronics
¥89.52
Details
制造商零件编号 ROB-13259
WHEEL - 65MM (RUBBER TIRE, PAIR)
SparkFun Electronics
¥30.12
Details
制造商零件编号 PRT-10368
JUMPER WIRE 0.1" 3-PIN 6"
SparkFun Electronics
¥13.02
Details
制造商零件编号 ROB-13302
GEARMOTOR 140 RPM 4.5V QTY 2
SparkFun Electronics
¥49.48
Details
制造商零件编号 PRT-09835
BATT HLDR AA 4 CELL BARREL PLUG
SparkFun Electronics
¥22.96
Details
制造商零件编号 EDUBIT
EDU:BIT WITH MICRO:BIT V2
Cytron Technologies Sdn Bhd
¥361.26
Details
USB MICRO-B CABLE - 6 FOOT
制造商零件编号 CAB-10215
USB MICRO-B CABLE - 6 FOOT
SparkFun Electronics
¥44.77
Details
制造商零件编号 SEN-11999
SPARKFUN REDBOT SENSOR - MECHANI
SparkFun Electronics
¥52.91
Details
制造商零件编号 ROB-12567
SPARKFUN REDBOT BUZZER
SparkFun Electronics
¥48.43
Details
制造商零件编号 SEN-12589
SPARKFUN REDBOT SENSOR ACCEL
SparkFun Electronics
¥61.05
Details
ARDUINO UNO R3 ATMEGA328P BOARD
制造商零件编号 102990189
ARDUINO UNO R3 ATMEGA328P BOARD
Seeed Technology Co., Ltd
¥214.35
Details
制造商零件编号 DEV-13975
REDBOARD ATMEGA328 EVAL BRD
SparkFun Electronics
¥175.01
Details
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