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LED Noodle Lamp

2025-01-17 | By Adafruit Industries

License: See Original Project 3D Printing Addressable LEDs Solder / Desoldering

Courtesy of Adafruit

Guide by Ruiz Brothers

Overview

 

lamp_1

Unique LED Bulb

You can build a Victorian-era inspired lamp using an LED Noodle ‎and 3D printed parts.‎

This features a 12V LED noodle that’s shaped in a zigzag pattern that ‎wraps around a transparent 3D printed core. A glass dome fits over ‎the LED giving this a unique aesthetic.‎

led_1

USB-C Power Delivery

The HUSB238 breakout is a power delivery board that lets you power ‎devices using USB-C wall adapters with multiple voltages.‎

This features the HUSB238 chip, STEMMA QT for I2C control, screw ‎block terminals and dip switches so you can easily toggle your ‎preferred voltage.‎

usb_3

Light Switch

Mounted inside the base is a 3D printed switch that is inspired by ‎the humble household light switch. It’s a print-in-place part that has ‎a really satisfying click that lets you turn the lamp on and off.‎

leds_onoff

switch_4

Parts

Additional Parts

USB PD power supply must be able to supply 12V at 1A minimum.‎

Hardware

  • ‎4x M2.5 x 6mm long steel screws‎

  • ‎10x M3 x 6mm long steel screws‎

  • ‎4x M3 x 10mm long steel screws‎

  • ‎2x M3 x 20mm long steel screws‎

  • ‎2x M3 hex nuts‎

PLA Filament

Choose your own preferred brand and colors of filament. The colors ‎listed below were used in this project.‎

Circuit Diagram

The diagram below provides a general visual reference for wiring the ‎components once you get to the Assembly page. This diagram was ‎created using the software package Fritzing.‎

Adafruit Library for Fritzing

Adafruit uses the Adafruit Fritzing parts library to create circuit ‎diagrams for projects. You can download the library or just grab ‎individual parts. Get the library and parts from GitHub - Adafruit ‎Fritzing Parts.‎

  diagram_5

Wired Connections

Slide Switch

  • PIN#1 from switch to ON Pin (either pad) on HUSB238 ‎Breakout

  • PIN#2 from switch to ON Pin (either pad) on HUSB238 ‎Breakout

‎12V LED Noodle‎

  • Anode from LED to Positive pin on HUSB238 Breakout

  • Cathode from LED to Negative pin on HUSB238 Breakout

PD USB Power Supply

The HUSB238 Breakout is powered by a PD USB power supply ‎‎(capable of 12V 1A output) into a wall outlet.‎

CAD Files

‎3D Printed Parts‎

STL files for 3D printing are oriented to print "as-is" on FDM style ‎machines. Parts are designed to 3D print without any support ‎material using PLA filament. Original design source may be ‎downloaded using the links below.‎

printed_6

Download STLs.zip

Download CAD source

CAD Assembly

The LED noodle is press fitted into the LED holder. The LED holder is ‎secured to the coupler and base with screws. The LED subassembly ‎is secured to the top base cover.‎

leds_cad

The main case is secured to the top base cover with screws. The ‎switch plate slides into the main case. The slide switch is press fitted ‎into the toggle switch adapter. The toggle switch is secured to the ‎switch plate.‎

The bottom frame and base are secured together, then it snap fits ‎into the main case. The HUSB238 breakout is secured to the bottom ‎cover using screws. The bottom cover snap fits under the bottom ‎base.‎

Build Volume

The parts require a 3D printer with a minimum build volume.‎

  • ‎120mm (X) x 120 (Y) x 120mm (Z)‎

build_8

Transparent PLA

The LED holder looks the best when printed using a ‎clear/transparent filament. The 3D model is thin and should only use ‎a single parameter when 3D printed.‎

pla_9

Design Source Files

The project assembly was designed in Fusion 360. This can be ‎downloaded in different formats like STEP, STL and more.‎

Electronic components like Adafruit's boards, displays, connectors ‎and more can be downloaded from the Adafruit CAD parts GitHub ‎Repo.

components_10

Wiring

Set Voltage

Using a fine precision tool, enable the dip switch to set the voltage to ‎‎12V. ‎

wiring_11

Wire for Switch

Use the silicone ribbon cable to create a piece of 2-wire cable that ‎measures 7 inches in length.‎

Using wire strippers, remove a bit of insulation from each end of the ‎wires.‎

Tin the exposed wires with a bit of solder – this prevents the wires ‎from fraying when soldering. ‎

wire_12

Prep Switch

Use flush snips to remove one of the legs (either far left or right but ‎not the middle).‎

Trim the remaining two legs so they're about half their length.‎

prep_13

Solder Wire to Switch

Tin the legs of the switch with a bit of solder. ‎

Attach the 2-wire cable to the two pins on the slide switch using a bit ‎of solder.‎

attach_14

attach_15

Attach Switch Wire to HUSB ‎Breakout

Solder the cable from the slide switch to the switch pins on the ‎HUSB238 breakout.‎

breakout_16

breakout_17

Prep Resistor

Pick out a single 100ohm resistor from the pack and trim the two ‎legs short using flush snips.‎

prep_18

Wire for LED Noodle

Use the silicone ribbon cable to make two long wires for the LED ‎noodle, preferably one wire with a marking to indicate polarity.‎

Create a piece of 2-wire cable that measures 9 inches in length. ‎

noodle_19

Solder Wire to LED

Locate the end of the LED with the anode pin (the one with the hole).‎

Solder the marked wire to the anode pin on the LED noodle.‎

solder_20

Heat Shrink

Add a piece of colored heat shrink tubing to the anode connection. ‎This helps to insulate the exposed pin and denotes the voltage wire.‎

Continue to solder the cathode pin on the LED noodle to the ‎remaining wire. ‎

Add another piece of heat shrink (preferably black) to insulate the ‎exposed connection.‎

heat_21

Ground Wire

Locate the end of the ground wire connection and cut off about 4 ‎inches.‎

Use wire stripper to remove a bit of insulation from the freshly cut ‎wires.‎

The 100ohm resistor will be soldered in-line with the ground wires.‎

ground_22

Attach Resistor

Solder the 100ohm resistor in line with the short wire and the longer ‎ground wire.‎

resistor_23

Wired LED

Double check the 100ohm resistor has been properly soldered to the ‎wires.‎

wiredled_24

Test LED

Insert the cathode wire from the LED noodle to the negative marked ‎screw block terminal on the HUSB238 breakout. Then use a ‎screwdriver to secure the wire.‎

Secure the anode wire to the positive voltage screw block terminal.‎

Power the HUSB238 breakout using the USB PD wall adapter and ‎USB-C cable.‎

Use the slide switch to power on the LED noodle.‎

test_25test_26

LED Assembly

LED Holder

Get the 3D printed LED holder and LED noodle ready for assembly.‎

holder_27

Clean 3D Print

Use a hobby knife to remove any excess material from the outer ‎edge of the bottom of the 3D print.‎

clean_28

Use caution when working with a hobby knife. Eye and hand ‎protection would be prudent.‎

Installing the LED Noodle

Locate the bottom of the 3D printed LED holder. Begin fitting the ‎two ends of the LED noodle into the channels.‎

Make sure the two ends of the LED noodle are in a position that is ‎similar to the assembly photo.‎

locate_29

locate_30

Press Fitting LED

Continue to press the LED noodle into the channel, following the ‎zigzag shape.‎

Repeat the installing for the opposite end of the LED noodle.‎

press_31

Zigzag Loop

A lengthy loop of the LED noodle should be remaining. The ‎remaining noodle will loop over the top of the holder.‎

zigzag_32

Excess Top

Loop the remaining noodle over the top of the holder and start press ‎fitting the remainder into the closest channel.‎

Repeat the installation for the opposite end of the LED noodle.‎

excess_33

Installed LED Noodle

The LED noodle should have enough length to fit through the ‎bottom of the channel.‎

Double check the entire length of the LED noodle is pressed into the ‎channels.‎

double_34

Test LED Noodle

Connect the positive and negative wires from the LED noodle into ‎the corresponding pins in the HUSB238 breakouts screw-block. Use ‎a screwdriver to secure the connections. ‎

Power the USB breakout using a USB-C cable and the USB PD wall ‎adapter. ‎

Use the slide switch to power the LED noodle.‎

power_35

Coupler & Base

Get the LED coupler and base ready to assemble together.‎

Use the following hardware to secure the parts together.‎

  • ‎2x M3 x 6mm long steel machine screws‎

coupler_36

Install LED Coupler

Press the LED coupler into the bottom of the LED holder so it is fitted ‎into the recess.‎

Orient the parts so the two mounting tabs are lined up.‎

coupler_37

coupler_38

Install LED Base

Insert the LED wiring through the top of the LED base.

Orient the ‎LED base so the mounting tabs are lined up with the holder and ‎coupler.‎

insert_39

insert_40

Secure LED Base

Use the following hardware to secure the LED parts together.‎

  • ‎2x M3 x 6mm long steel screws‎

Fasten the two screws to secure the LED holder, coupler, and base.‎

base_41

Assembled LED Holder

Take a moment to ensure all of the parts have been properly ‎assembled.‎

assembled_42

Enclosure Assembly

Top Base Cover

Use the following hardware to secure the LED base to the top base ‎cover.‎

  • ‎2x M3 x 6mm steel screws‎

top_43

Install LED to Top Base Cover

Insert the LED wires through the center hole of the top base cover.‎

Place the LED base over the Top Base Cover so the mounting holes ‎are lined up.‎

Insert and fasten the M3 screws to secure the LED base to the Top ‎Base Cover.‎

fasten_44

fasten_45

Secured Top Base Cover

Take a moment to ensure the LED base has been properly installed ‎to the top base cover.‎

securetop_46

securetop_47

Base Case Installation

Get the base case ready to attach to the top base cover. Use the ‎following hardware to secure the parts together.‎

  • ‎4x M3 x 10mm long steel screws‎

base_48

Orient the top base cover with the case so the four mounting holes ‎in the corners are lined up.‎

Insert the LED wire through the top of the base case.‎

led_49

Secure Top Cover to Case

Begin inserting and fastening the screws to secure the top cover to ‎the case.‎

begin_50

Assembled Case

Take a moment to ensure the case has been properly secured to the ‎top base cover.‎

case_51

Light Switch Parts

Get the three light switch parts ready to assemble. Use the following ‎hardware.‎

  • ‎2x M3 x 20mm long steel screws‎

  • ‎2x M3 x 6mm long steel screws‎

  • ‎2x M3 hex nuts‎

light_52

Install Plate Decal

Place the plate decal over the switch plate and line up the mounting ‎holes.‎

Insert and fasten the two M3 x 6mm long screws to secure the parts ‎together.‎

decal_53

decal_54

Install Toggle Switch Adapter

Orient the toggle switch adapter and place it into the switch plate.‎

Insert the toggle switch through the opening in the switch plate and ‎line up the two mounting holes.‎

adapter_55

Secure Toggle Switch

Insert and fasten the two M3 x 20mm long machine screws through ‎the mounting tabs.‎

Use the two M3 hex nuts to secure the parts together.‎

toggle_56

toggle_57

Install Slide Switch

Orient the slide switch with the cavity in the toggle switch.‎

Press fit the slide switch into the cavity in the toggle switch adapter.‎

Test the toggle switch mechanism by flipping the actuator.‎

orient_58

orient_59

Bottom Base & Frame

Get the bottom base and frame ready to secure together using the ‎following hardware.‎

  • ‎4x M3 x 6mm long machine screws‎

bottom_60

Orient the bottom base and frame so the snaps are correctly lined ‎up. Reference the assembly photo for the correct orientation.

Place the bottom frame over the bottom case and line up the four ‎mounting holes.‎

place_61

Secure Base and Frame

Insert and fasten the M3 screws through the four mounting holes to ‎secure the parts together.‎

secure_62

secure_63

Install Light Switch Plate

The switch plate subassembly is fitted through the opening in the ‎base case. ‎

The outer edges will prevent the plate from falling through the ‎opening.‎

Slide the switch plate all the way through the opening in the case.‎

plate_64

Install Bottom Frame to Case

Orient the bottom frame with the case so the snaps are oriented ‎correctly.‎

frame_65

Secured Bottom

Firmly press the bottom frame into the case so the parts snap fit ‎together.‎

snap_66

HUSB238 Breakout Placement

Place the HUSB238 breakout onto the bottom cover so the ‎mounting holes are lined up with the built-in standoffs.‎

Use the four M2.5 x 6mm long steel screws to secure the PCB to the ‎standoffs.‎

husb_67

husb_68

Secure LED Wires

Insert and secure the LED wires to the HUSB238 breakout so the ‎negative and positive are on the proper pins in the screw block.‎

wires_69

Test Toggle Switch

Power the HUSB238 breakout using a USB-C cable and a USB PD ‎wall adapter.‎

Use the toggle switch to test the LED noodle.‎

If the switch actuator feels incorrect, take the moment to flip and ‎reverse the switch plate so it's in the correct orientation.‎

testswitch_70

Install Bottom Cover

Orient the bottom cover with the bottom base so the USB port on ‎the breakout is facing the port opening.‎

Firmly press the bottom cover into the bottom base so they are snap ‎fitted together.‎

cover_71

cover_72

Install Glass Dome

Press the glass dome into the recess in the top base cover. It should ‎have a nice and snug fit.‎

dome_73

Final Build

Congratulations on your build! ‎

Take a moment to inspect your work and ensure all of the part have ‎been securely fastened together.‎

final_74

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Adafruit Industries LLC
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